This decal set contains all the decals you need to create a complicated aztec pattern of panelling like those seen on the studio model used in the filiming of Star Trek: The Motion Picture through Star Trek VI: The Undiscovered Country. Registry and name markings are not included.
These aztec decals for the Enterprise Refit for the AMT 1:537 kit. This set includes the same details as the Polar Lights 1:350 set, but scaled and adjusted for the AMT kit. The strongback decals have a blue tint, as seen in The Wrath of Kahn - The Undiscovered Country.
Decal set includes:
7 sheets of decals
4 of 4 found the following review helpful:
Hey! The first Aztec Decal Review! Now you can decide if they are for you!
by Jesse Bellamy from Everett, WA on Apr 18, 2010
Review of Acreation Models Aztecing decals for the 1/537 AMT Enterprise, product # ACM-AMT537REFIT, available in the Starship Modeler store for $35.00. I ordered the version with the blue “Strongbacks”, as the Enterprise was seen from The "Wrath of Khan" through "The Undiscovered Country”. No photo's are included of the result- my digital camera didn't seem to be capable of picking up the details- once I get a different camera I will submit photo's. First off, let me start by saying that I have been out of the hobby for about 6-7 years, and decided for my first foray back into the hobby would be a familiar subject- AMT's 1/537 Enterprise, one that I have built many of over the years. Having seen Acreation Models Aztecing decals on this site, and no longer having the desire to airbrush all those little panels as I had done in the past, I decided to do this build as an experiment- I built the kit straight out of the box, no puttying of seams, no aftermarket parts, etc, I just wanted to see what these decals could do. Let me just say, before the review, that I will do a more thorough build (puttied seams, etc) of this using these decals again- however- I will definitely use the “smoothie” version of this kit- the scribed panels definitely don't help things here. First, what you get. The description in the ad states that you get seven sheets with enough decals to cover one model. This is completely accurate, however there are also decals for the warp engine panels, both “powered up” and “powered down”. Along with the blue Strongbacks, there are decals for the blue vertical stripe on the neck. Not knowing of anything but the Aztecs and the Strongbacks, I purchased additional decals that I didn't need. Also in the ad, the decals appear fairly dark- no worries here, they are actually very light and produce an excellent aztecing result- in fact, the decals that go on the planetary sensor and on the top of the impulse engine are so light that I almost didn't see them. You also get a one sheet instruction pamphlet that is pretty vague. There is line drawing of the ship showing the top, one side, front, and back, with the decals number and a red line showing where the decal is to be placed. For a majority of the decals this isn't a problem, as the shape of the printed artwork is a pretty good indicator of where the decal should go, however I had big problems with the decals that go on the warp nacelles- the instructions for these decals aren't very clear where they should be placed on the nacelle, just pointing to the general area, and (at least for me) it was difficult to determine where the decals should start or stop. It would have been much clearer if the instructions had had the line drawing of these areas “blown up” showing clearer positioning. In retrospect, I wish I had made notes of the individual decals I had difficulty with, and where they were actually supposed to go. I could have saved someone else all the frustration I went through here. I'll definitely do so on my next build. The decals themselves are of very good quality, and other than the clarity of the placement guide for the nacelles, I can honestly say that any problems I experienced were of my own doing. The instructions suggest that you could coat them with Microscales liquid decal film to strengthen them, which I did not. I didn't have any problems with decals breaking, but but I had a big problem early on with some edges “rolling under” themselves, and was afraid to try to remove the decal and unroll it. This created areas where some paneling was substantially darker than others and miss shaped. The instructions state to cut as closely as possible to the artwork, which is crucial, but I found that if I also cut a “tab” to hold on to while I slid the decal off by over cutting on one end of a decal (then lightly cutting at the edge of the artwork, just enough to go through the decal film) I had much better control and results. Overall, I like the results that these produce and will use them again on a more serious build. I did find, however, that this method, to be done properly, really wasn't any faster than airbrushing panels using masks- there are a large number of decals to be placed (approximately 80 different decals, much more if you cut them into easier-to-use sections)), and you really need to work in small sections at a time. These aren't for anyone who doesn't have patience, or is thinking that this is a big shortcut vs airbrushing the panels. I spent about two weeks, anywhere from 2 to 4 hours at a time almost daily, getting these placed. Below are some notes that may help you make the decision if these are for you, or help you get better results: *If you dread putting on decals, or are heavy handed and experience frequent breakage when doing them, these probably aren't for you. *Use a decal setting solution. *It will take more time, but you'll get better results if you cut the decals into smaller sections, particularly on the ones that are circular with the center needing to be removed (planetary sensor). Any shapes that are not square, rectangular, oval, or triangular are likely to be troublesome if not cut into smaller sections. *Anywhere a decal overlaps you will get a darker effect, try to avoid overlaps by cutting as close to the artwork as possible, test fit, and trim as needed. Although these are extremely accurate, overlaps will happen on some areas unless test fit and trimmed. *Don't even think about applying these to a completed model- there are decals that MUST be placed (top band on main deflector housing, as an example) prior to assembly. Here are sub assemblies I did: Secondary Hull assembled, neck pieces assembled but not attached, warp pylons assembled but not attached, warp nacelles assembled but not attached. I left the two saucer halves unassembled until decal placement was finished. *Don't rush it- always try to work on a few decals between the major sub assemblies at a time to avoid placing a decal next to a decal that hasn't completely dried yet. *For best results, once you have placed a few decals between the sub assemblies (and they have had ample time to dry), spray a light coat of clear coat and allow it to dry. This will lock in the decal and eliminate potential damage when placing additional decals. *For this experiment, I used the Enterprise that has the scribed panels. Although the decals do make it look better, they would have the best results on a “smoothie” produced prior to the Star Trek II version, as the printed panels do not line up with the scribed panels unless by accident. *These are very good quality and accurate, and as stated before most of the issues I faced were of my own doing. Through patience a modeler of intermediate experience could produce a very nice model using this product.